You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Mikinoz should be able to tell you yo. Location Melbourne. Jason, The throttle pipe is plenty sturdy for the brass pressure fitting. My boost gauge has been in for quite a while now and not even the slightest hint of leak or stress due to the fitting. I'm still gonna look to tap into the line to the wastegate actuator. If possible. Also the pipe on my car is very different to the one in the DIY I got from you.
Can you please confirm thought that the prob is installed preturbo for the EGT? Joined Sep 27, Location Spicewood, Tx. TDI Good write up.. He recommended installing it on the DP by the Lambda I'm thinking about it. I don't race or tow trailers, I just want my gauge to work What do you think? I couldn't wait any longer I read countless threads on diesel truck forums describing the difference between putting your EGT probe before or after the turbo. The consensus: after turbine will read to degrees F lower.
When you've got performance mods such as myself you want to be monitoring the EGTs closely. Pics: nice view of the new DP. Last edited: Jun 1, Thats great! I agree, the manifold was a better choice as far as accuracy is concerned.
The harness will have three wires attached to it: a grey one, a grey one with a blue stripe, and a brown one. Cut the grey wire with the blue stripe about two inches down from the harness, and strip the ends of both sides. Take whatever wire you will be using as your positive connection and feed it through the trim you removed on the steering column. Looking through the side panel you will be able to see it flapping around in there, grab it and pull it to the dimmer wire harness.
Before you crimp the other side on, it helps to fold over the wire to make it a little thicker. Once both sides are crimped you should have a connection like in the picture below. Optional For the negative wire, you can go through the same process to attach it to the brown wire on the harness.
But if you would like to avoid cutting more stock wires, then follow the directions below. If you look above the pedals under the dash, you will see a relay panel with four different bolt posts pictured.
To the left side of the bolt post labeled "75x" circled in green , there is another 10mm bolt circled in red that holds the panel to the car.
This bolt is a great place for the negative wire. Feed the wire through the steering column, like you did with the positive wire, and pull it through near the pedals. After you loosen the 10 mm bolt you can wrap the wire around it and retighten it, but I would recommend instead using a small terminal ring crimped to the end of the wire then screwed back on around the bolt. Keep it clean and stock looking. Your wiring is done!
The gauge light will turn on and off with your dash lights and brighten or darken with the dimmer switch. Before you screw your gauge into the pod, remember to check and make sure the bulb lights up, if you are using an LED light. If it doesn't light up, flip the bulb around and try it again. Like I said, I'm not going to cover this topic extensively as it is pretty simple and there are hundreds of DIY's out there covering this part. This is the most common way that people route in the boost gauge hose.
Also, I know the vac lines look like a sloppy mess. I just had to get everything hooked up and attached to pass emissions. In the picture above, the item circled in red is your FPR fuel pressure regulator. This is the easiest and most common vacuum line to tap into that shows both vacuum and boost coming from the intake manifold. It is located on the right side of the fuel rail towards the windshield if you have an Audi , and unlike in the picture, the hose will be black braided fabric.
It will look somewhat like bicycle-pump hosing. Cut that hose in half a few inches or so from the FPR and insert your "t" coupler for your boost hose.
You can use tiny hose clamps to tighten it on, but I suggest using zip ties instead. It may sound trashy, but if you use black you can't see them, and they seal a lot better than small hose clamps. Now on the firewall under your windshield in the engine bay , you will see a black disc about a foot across stuck to it your brake booster. Just to the top of the disc and to the left, there is a little rubber round grommet about a centimeter in size.
That is where you will be running your boost hose into the car; it is also where you would run an amplifier cable for subwoofers. I like the cars, the cars that go boom! My name is With some needle-nose pliers, pull that grommet out, or push it through to the other side and you should be able to find it somewhere by your pedals. Log in Register. Search titles only. Search Advanced search…. New posts. Search forums.
Log in. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Boost gauge install? Thread starter Perreault17 Start date Nov 12, Perreault17 Veteran Member.
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